Skip to main content

Go To Patterns - Casual Lady Dress Revised

So in my first post about this, I detailed the various revisions I made to the pattern to get it to fit my rather non-standard form.

TBH, I was quite happy with the dress as it was - it was flattering and comfortable.  I was a bit annoyed by the back darts I added though, they just weren't doing what I thought they would.

So I off I trundled to sewing class to ask for advice on that...and ended up redoing the front also.

Front after revisions


I haven't included the "before" picture for this was as it hasn't changed dramatically.  Basically I took some more in off the sides of the skirt from the high waist down, and I redid the bust darts as they were way too long.

The changes might be more visible in this side by side:

SideCasualLady_Side























I removed the darts in the back completely, and while the bust dart is actually still wrong (it's not pointing where it should), it is at least now the length it should be.   Annoyingly, I am turned a bit too far to the front in the newer one and you can't see the new back.  The dress as a whole actually sits better, but removing the darts came at a price:

Closer back with no dartsCasualLady_Back























As you can see here it is quite a lot better without the darts, but I do have some pooling of fabric instead. Interestingly, while a swayback adjustment has never been a thing I have considered that I might need, it seems to be what is required here.  The pics below show the contrast if I just pinch out the excess fabric:


Needs a swayback

Before - a fair pool of fabric just above my bum

How a swayback might help


After - much better!

Annoyingly, this isn't an adjustment which can be done after - not on a stripey fabric anyway.  I would need to take a slash out of the pattern piece which would be about an inch deep at centre back and which then tapers out towards the hips to nothing.  I could sew a funny dart in - but the black stripe would then be warped.  Next time!  I will also add something to the shoulder area next time as it's a smidgen too tight.

So am definitely going to make this again and soon - before I forget all the lessons learned.  I made notes on the pattern but it's really easy to think you will know what you mean and 6 months later you have no idea! I am hoping that there is enough of the charcoal grey ponte I have in my stash!

I leave you with the rather unhappy sight of some physios tape doing the job of my poor achilles tendons.  I have tendonitis on both sides (crappy running gait plus enthusiastically running up some hills last week) and have to start from scratch on learning to run :(  am frankly super shitty about it because I just did my first 5k run last week and I don't want to lose the hard work I did to build up to that.  I guess I need to remember if I don't do it the right way I will end up even more hobbled, but it's very hard to be patient!

Sore paws

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Named Astrid Wrap Shorts - Pattern Test

I absolutely love the new collection from Named called Royals.  I was lucky to have the opportunity to test the Astrid Wrap Shorts, which is a two in one pattern of either shorts or full length wide legged pants.

Here are the versions on the Named site:


The pattern was clear and easy to follow.  The only tricky part was ensuring the place where the wrap starts is nice and neat.

I made my version out of some cream herringbone linen I bought in Tessuti Melbourne several years ago:

And here is the front:


back:


and side, where the tie is:


I love these shorts.  I am not sure the plain linen is the best fabric to use for visual impact, but they are super comfortable and a good weight for Sydney.

I did have a sizing issue in that they turned out quite a bit larger than expected, which means I need to pull the tie tighter and makes it look messy.  As this was a pattern test I would not take this as necessarily true of the released pattern, and I will confess that I haven't checked the fin…

KCW 01/14: Day 1

This Kids Clothes Week is technically Winter but I am calling it 01/14, as it was over thirty degrees here today!  My mission is only to make one thing - a new raincoat for Issy.

I did some prep before the week started - cutting out the main fabric.  I went away across the Australia Day long weekend so I knew I would only have a scant hour tonight.


The main fabric is a soft greyish purple laminate I got from the Kelani fabric stall at the Melbourne Craft Fair last year.  I am using the Oliver + S School Days Coat pattern, which I have made previously for her.

In the hour I managed to cut the lining and sew the hood.


Annoyingly I even got the stitching around the edge done which looked great, but then I turned it over and I had managed to catch the lining folded over in the topstitching.  Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

SO I unpicked that (with no small amount of swearing) and then decided to call it a night.  I could imagine irritably resewing it and doing the same thing again if I wasn't care…

Dumb and Dumber - or how not to make a Washi Dress...

[Note that I believe all the dumbness in this post is to do with my newbie status as pattern adjuster, some carelessness, some overconfidence and some just plain idiotic moves - not the Washi pattern!  I found the pattern itself really easy to follow and sew; and if you don't totally screw it up then it's quick to sew too!]

So like everyone else that moves, I really liked the look of the Washi dress / tunic.  I bought the pattern and then ummed and ahhed about the FBA part.

Dumbness #1:
Clearly, I have to accept that I always require an FBA.  Why would I think otherwise?  I guess partly it was the measurements on the pattern; but the advice was clear and for my circumstances, an FBA was needed.  So here is attempt 1 - it was supposed to be a muslin and then I started loving the fabric was gutted when it didn't fit.

Dumbness #2:
Making a muslin out of a fabric I liked, then being crapped off when it didn't fit.


Mmmmm squeezy!

Happily my friend Danika selflessly stepped…